Sea, Surf and Meditation
©Minimal Surf is a project of Largo Filmes that takes place in four short films, corresponding to four distinct moments bonding the surfer and the sea, mediated by the full contemplation of each of these moments.
I thank Tiago Cravidão from Largo Filmes for inviting me to give a meditative voice to this adventure.
I’ve lived with the sea as a backdrop for as long as I can remember. My experience with this larger element of the planet is very immersive; I have always enjoyed diving, swimming and letting myself go in the sea.
Surf as been a long time curiosity, a desire that I always put as unattainable, who knows why?!
Tiago’s invitation surprised and scared me at the same time. On the one hand the fascination around the sea and those gliding figures over the waves, as if by magic they could get the ability to fly (flying, another of the things that fascinates me). On the other hand, my total ignorance of the deep sensations of a surfer, his motivations, drives, fears and anxieties…
And so I decided to accept the challenge. To embrace the fascination and give it some body, embracing at the same time the multiple fears and shame that mixed and quickly came to surface; to the surface of a wave in which I saw myself wrapped.
I saw lots of surf videos, read about surfing, meditated on surfing, let myself be rocked by Sophia’s words, but above all I decided to try a surfboard on the waves. I will not describe the unedifying details of this adventure but I will say that it did not take more than a few seconds (at the final straight of the test) to realize it!
It was during those seconds where a guy says to himself – “ok, you’ve done all the sad little figurines you could do in one day, you’ve already kneaded your arms paddling for two weeks, now…enough! – that, being marked not by giving up but by surrendering to what is, right there, at that moment, surrendered to the elements and stripped of the expectation of doing or achieving anything, that it all happened: without knowing how or why, lying on that immense beginner’s board, in a magical pass, I felt myself sliding off the wave. I slowly (and shortly…) stood up to taste that brief and fleeting moment and I felt many things that I will not know how to describe, but above all I totally surrendered to the moment.
How addictive it can be! And yet, everything else was there equally: fear, shame, expectation, vanity, disappointment … everything you experience in life. But the sea allows another perspective; a more embodied, more vivid perspective of the moment.
And so, here is the contribution to Tiago’s images and dreams. And my decision to go back on a board, if only to disgrace myself and let myself go in the Sea in another way.
Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen
Loud sea, bottomless sea, endless sea,
Your beauty grows when we’re alone.
And so deep your voice intimately
Follows the secretmost dancing of my dream
That moments are when I think
You’re a miracle created only for me.